How PP2000 fix the problem that Peugeot 406 AC suddenly stop working

Car model and details:
Peugeot 406 Y2001 D9 1.8 petrol 406 Glx
Problem description:
AC suddenly stops working. Just press the button few times but cant here the sound of AC clutch cut in. so checked with an AC.
Guy and he said gas pressure is normal informed me that it’s may be a wiring problem .he checked the front radiator fan too , said it’s not working .
But the engine is not over heating, sometimes I noticed fan is working hi speed for few seconds like 30 40 seconds like.
Fan low speed is not working.
I checked the relays all are good.
My car has only one fan a large single fan like this
406 fan
Analysis and diagnosis:
I don't know how it is with full-mux cars, but on my semi-mux and many others like it the A/C relay in the BSI burns out. It's possible to replace the relay only with a bit of soldering and a bit of cutting in the BSI-casing to gain access.
Test procedure:
PP2000 diagnostic interface, engine off -> aircon clutch actuation (should trigger the clutch on and off 5 times, loud metallic clunk).
directly on the compressor: put 12V to the correct pin on the compressor to see if the clutch works, you should hear a loud metallic clunk.
If PP2000 diagnostic interface (Lexia 3) does not trigger the clutch, but the manual trigger does then the first suspect is the BSI relay.
I think PP2000 scanner is quite important in your case, because you have two possible causes: fan-fault causing the BSI to not engage
the AC, or alternatively the relay.
The fan problem is typical, and I currently suffer from the same. As you say, one of the fans go on on high for a few seconds, then stops. I seem to recall someone saying that the problem is the brushes in the fan motors get jammed and loose connection to the rotor.
Try to look through the grille next time, only one will be spinning.
Often the two fans in parallel is OK to keep the engine cool, but when one fails it's impossible to run it at anything other than full speed. Figure out which one of the two fans is faulty by testing the fans individually from the relay-panel in front of the fan assembly (easily accessible if you remove the grille). I think it was on the coupe-forum I received a bunch of good tips on how to wire it up for the testing, it's not that intuitive.
edit - scrap my comments on the BSI-relay, i'm skipping lines today :-)
fan fault it is - although mine works even with a fan fault, so i guess it depends on whether it's the left or right fan that fails.
AC diagram for 406 and build code (RPO/DAM) explanation:
Moreover, you are required to supply the build code (RPO/DAM) for your car? 406s changed a lot in 2001 and it makes a big difference to the wiring.
The RPO is 08829 (the 89 means it was built at Sochaux, like the majority of 406s), Thu 11 Jan 2001 so definitely a semi-mux. I forgot there are 4 1.8 engines but the diagrams all appear to be the same. I'll add the descriptions in a minute...

BH28 - 28-way passenger fuse panel (I wouldn't take the fuse locations as gospel. Also, be aware that they managed to fit some of there upside-down!)
BM34 - 34-way engine compartment fuse panel.
BH12 - 12-way passenger fuse panel (it's above or below the other one)
1620 : vehicle speed sensor /
8006 : evaporator thermistor (if separate)
6415 : passenger mirror (electric mirror / heated mirror) (external temperature sensor)
1320 - engine ecu
8007 : pressostat
4025 : engine oil temperature sensor + thermal switch
the 90-- stuff is the mux, er, thingy
8030 : passenger compartment air thermistor
8080 : air conditioning ECU
8020 : air conditioning compressor
8010 : coolant temperature unit (/)
8033 : sunshine temperature sender unit
8031 : coolant thermistor
8070 : air inlet flap reduction motor
8065 : mixing flap motor /
8071 : air distribution flap motor (/)
8045 : blower control module (if separate)
The low speed fan is done by a resistor on these, they do rot out but I don't think they'll stop the air con from at least trying to work.
Question: MFD show temperature no any numbers:
Found that the MFD it show up -- at the temperature display position all the time. I guess outside temperature is about 25c .
i just dissemble the wing mirror and found the sensor which leads 2 black wires .
which voltage does the wires supply to the sensor .i have a multi meter so i can check the sensor wires have power at the connector in the door.
I think it's most likely a thermistor. If it's reading 00 it might be the computer's way of saying open circuit, as otherwise I would expect it to say -255*C for NTC or +255*C for PTC.
Since you have a multimeter there anyway hook it up as a voltmeter across the connection, that should give you the supply voltage (or alternatively it would give you an indication of a wire issue, although a thermostat issue is perhaps more likely).
If the MFD show temperature no any numbers
That suggests that the sensor is not connected properly (e.g. sensor faulty, wiring faulty, connector faulty, or - less likely - BSI faulty)
PP2000 might throw an error to let you know what's going on, and if you measure the sensor you'll have an idea if it's an open circuit. There's a slight chance the sensor is amplified, but a 2-pin connector strongly suggests that it's just a dumb thermostat.
You can perhaps trick it into working by connecting traditional resistors in place of the sensor and see what temperature read-out you get. Try biggest resistors first then work your way down until you see a realistic temperature. Maybe AC will turn on then (and of course replace the sensor with a new one as soon as you know if that's the fault).
Finally, I ordered one PP2000 Peugeot diagnostic tool:
I just checked the voltage between the wires of the sensor .it shows only 0.5v .also i check the wire continuity all good .and the outside temperature sensor show 535 ohm reading .and when Imove the soldering iron to the sensor tip the resistance keep reducing bit by bit .I checked till it reduce to 440 ohm .
Also I connected a 10k resister between the wires a nothing changed.
i think the voltage to the sensor is very low .may be due to a BSI problem ...
Today ordered a PP2000 diagnostic interface and need more help from you guys for doing scanning things.

2003 1.6 16V 206CC turns over fine, but won't start

This post is on how to solve the non-starting problem with 2003 1.6 16V 206CC using Lexia 3 PP2000.

Car model and year: 2003 1.6 16V 206CC
Problem:  non-starting problem that I cant get to the bottom of, turned over fine, but wouldn't start.
Here’s what I've done so far.......
1. I have carried out the BSI reset procedure following Capncol's instructions to the letter. (I've probably done this a dozen times now!)
2. I have made sure the battery is in good condition. It's been fully charged and tested - all good.
3. I decided to buy a Lexia 3 diagbox with Peugeot Planet 2000. I've run the diagnostic several times and it appears to talk to all of the ECU's with no faults coming up. (This surprised me a bit to be honest!).
4. I've done a visual check on the wiring loom, particularly under the air filter as I'd read that there was a section prone to corroding wires under there. All look fine, but I haven't checked each wire for resistance yet.
5. I've checked all fuses with a meter and all are fine.
6. I reset the keys using PP2000 and they work fine.
7. I removed the coil pack & plugs and using the actuator test on PP2000, I checked for a spark....... NO SPARK!! I also checked for a spark, buy turning the engine over on the key. Still no spark.I checked the coil pack plug and there is no voltage at he plug on any of the four wires. (I know one is an earth)
8. Whilst the plugs were out, I did a compression test. Cylinder 1 (gearbox end) was a little low compared to the others, but a little bit of oil down the plug hole and a retest saw it come up, so probably needs a set of rings at some stage.
9. Fuel pressure seems OK. After cranking I checked the little bleed valve on the fuel rail and it squirted all over me!! I also removed the rear seat and I can hear the fuel pump operating.
10. Again using the actuator test on PP2000, I checked the injectors one by one. I can hear all clicking during the test, BUT there is no smell of fuel with the plugs removed, which I was expecting there would be?
11. I removed the crank sensor to check for damage / debris, but it was clean and undamaged.
Finally solved!
I’ve managed to get hold of a kit from a donor car consisting of bsi/ecu/key/barrel/transponder/door locks & fuel cap.. Both bsi and ecu have exact same part numbers to my original ones.. I’ve also bought the pp2000/lexiadiagnostics equipment to.. Capncol is there a specific procedure to changing these items as i dont want to ruin the chances of this curing my problem.
great news! Well done on the fix and well spotted  looks like we both had a result last night as i changed my crank position sensor and she fired straight up!! I did think it could of been that from the start due to there being no spark or injectors spraying but as there was no fault codes being brought up i basically over looked it: /
oh well 2 cars fixed!!
This is from obd tool website technical support: 2003 1.6 16V 206CC turns over fine, but won't start